Events in Japan

Events & Festivals in Japan

Your complete guide to what's happening throughout the year

Japan's events calendar weaves ancient ritual and modern spectacle into every season—one of the world's busiest. Spring erupts in cherry blossom pink; summer roars with taiko drums and fireworks; autumn glazes hillsides in fiery koyo; winter glitters with illuminations and the legendary Sapporo Snow Festival. Whether you're building a Japan travel guide itinerary or simply choosing the best time to visit Japan, the country rewards year-round travel. From solemn Obon rites to raucous neighborhood matsuri, from excellent music at Fuji Rock to the extraordinary japan food culture that defines every market and street corner—there is always something unfolding. Advance booking is essential for peak periods. Japan's most beloved events attract millions, and accommodation disappears months ahead.

Peak Event Periods: Cherry Blossom Season (late March–mid April): Japan's single busiest travel window. Kyoto and Tokyo rooms vanish months ahead. The well-known scenery arrives with a price—maximum crowds, maximum beauty., Golden Week (April 29–May 5): Japan's longest consecutive holiday sees the entire domestic population traveling at once—shinkansen, highways, and resort areas sell out months ahead. Plan meticulously or skip popular destinations entirely if crowds aren't your thing., August 12–16: Obon slams Japan. The year's biggest domestic travel increase crashes straight into the densest matsuri lineup—fireworks, street stalls, ancestor dances, the lot. Tohoku and Kansai shoulder the heaviest load., November is the month. Kyoto and Nikko choke on koyo pilgrims—same cities, different bloom. The foliage increase burns slower than sakura yet hotel demand in prime foliage destinations spikes just as hard. Japan weather hits its sweet spot for sightseeing., New Year (December 30–January 3): Domestic travel spikes—families rush home. Major shrine destinations absorb millions of visitors in the first three days of January. Most businesses shut through January 3rd. The whole country turns ceremonial, reflective, and quiet.

January

🎊Oshogatsu – Japanese New Year

2026-01-01 - 2026-01-03 Nationwide; Meiji Shrine, Tokyo for scale
Free holiday

Three million visitors—Tokyo's Meiji Shrine swallows them in three days flat. Japan's most important holiday flips the switch: shops slam shut, trains thin out, and the usual electric buzz drops to a whisper. Families pour otoso rice wine, mail nengajo postcards, then line up for hatsumode, the year's first shrine visit. The country doesn't pause; it reboots. Renewal feels quiet, deliberate, and nothing like the everyday rush.

Tip: Beat the dawn—be inside the torii by 7am on January 1st and you'll skip the snake-lines that later wrap around every major shrine. Can't face the alarm? Hold off until January 3rd; the crowds drop by half and you can still taste the holiday incense. Those first quiet streets of New Year's Day, empty except for the clack of wooden geta and distant temple bells, deliver the most atmospheric hour Japan will ever give you.

Grand Sumo Tournament – Hatsu Basho

Dates vary yearly Ryogoku Kokugikan, Sumida, Tokyo
Book Ahead sports

The year's first of six Grand Sumo Tournaments runs for 15 days in mid-January at Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo. Two wrestlers compete per bout in Japan's ancient national sport, with the overall record deciding the tournament champion. The ceremony surrounding each match—salt-throwing purification, the referee's silk robes, the gyoji's chanting—rivals the bouts themselves. Atmosphere inside the stadium crackles when yokozuna grand champions compete.

Tip: Weeks ahead, log onto the Sumo Association website and grab lower-tier arena seats—unreserved masu-box seats cost extra yet feel real. Weekdays draw thinner crowds. Arrive by noon. You'll catch lower-division matches—empty benches, top-tier sumo.

February

🙏Setsubun – Bean-Throwing Festival

2026-02-03 Naritasan Shinshoji Temple, Chiba; Senso-ji, Tokyo
Free religious

Japanese people hurl roasted soybeans at anyone in an oni demon mask while shouting 'Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!'—Out with demons, in with luck! Major temples and shrines hold public mamemaki ceremonies. Eating the same number of ehomaki sushi rolls as your age while facing the year's lucky compass direction is a cherished nationwide ritual.

Tip: Naritasan Shinshoji throws Japan’s biggest Setsubun party—sumo stars and TV faces chuck beans at the crowd. Get there 90 minutes early or you won’t squeeze inside the main temple grounds.

🎉Sapporo Snow Festival

Dates vary yearly Odori Park and Susukino, Sapporo, Hokkaido
Free festival

Five-story snow castles rise above Odori Park and Susukino every February. The Sapporo Snow Festival—Hokkaido's crown jewel—packs both districts with dozens of monumental sculptures, some replicating world landmarks, others frozen anime giants. Two million visitors swarm the site for roughly a week. After dark, LEDs turn the ice into an otherworldly light show. Japan Self-Defense Forces spend weeks building the largest pieces; their military precision shows in every chamfered edge.

Tip: Book Sapporo Japan hotels six to twelve months in advance—this is the most accommodation-constrained event in the country. Pair it with nearby ski resorts at Niseko for a complete Hokkaido winter itinerary covering both festival culture and adventurous things to do in Japan.

March

🎭Hinamatsuri – Doll Festival

2026-03-03 Nationwide; Katsuura City, Chiba for spectacle
Free cultural

Girls' Day turns every household into a doll museum. Families haul out ornate multi-tiered platforms—each shelf crammed with elaborately dressed imperial court dolls called hina-ningyo. Some pieces aren't bought; they're heirlooms passed down for generations. Pink hishimochi rice cakes and sweet amazake appear on every table. Museums and historic homes across Japan unlock their finest collections—no velvet ropes, just walk right in. The Katsuura Big Hinamatsuri in Chiba goes bigger: 1,800 dolls cascade down temple steps like a porcelain waterfall. Extraordinary.

Tip: Skip Tokyo's crowds—Katsuura Big Hinamatsuri runs late February to early March. The staircase display is visually impressive. You'll share it with almost no international tourists.

Tokyo Marathon

Dates vary yearly Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building to Tokyo Big Sight
Book Ahead sports

Tokyo Marathon isn't just another race—it's one of the six World Marathon Majors, and 38,000 runners know it. They'll flood the city on the first Sunday of March, pounding past the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, through Asakusa's Senso-ji, before finishing near the Imperial Palace. The course is famously fast and well-organized. Even non-runners line the route. Why? The festive atmosphere crushes anything you'll see elsewhere, spectator support stays enthusiastic, and the jp japan food stalls lining the course are a treat.

Tip: Your shot at running comes down to luck. The lottery opens the previous spring—domestic and international entries draw from separate pools. Spectators line the course for free; the Asakusa stretch around 10am turns into a street party.

April

🎉Hanami – Cherry Blossom Season

Dates vary yearly Maruyama Park, Kyoto; Ueno Park, Tokyo; Mount Yoshino, Nara
Free festival

Millions cram under flowering sakura trees for hanami picnics—bento boxes, sake, total chaos. The bloom front rolls north from late March in Tokyo and Kyoto through May in Hokkaido. Parks explode into raucous outdoor parties by day, then shift to ethereal illuminated canopies by night. This is Japan's most well-known seasonal event and arguably the best time to visit for first-timers—expect extraordinary beauty alongside enormous, joyful crowds.

Tip: One week. That's all you get. Peak bloom at each location is brutally short—about seven days, no more. Track the Japan Meteorological Corporation's sakura forecast like a hawk and lock in rooms 3-4 months early. Crowds vanish before 9am on weekdays. You'll have Philosopher's Path in Kyoto almost to yourself—clear views, zero elbows.

🙏Kanamara Matsuri – Festival of the Steel Phallus

Dates vary yearly Kanayama Shrine, Kawasaki City, Kanagawa
Free religious

Kanayama Shrine in Kawasaki erupts on the first Sunday of April. Worshippers shoulder scarlet phalluses the size of telephone poles. They chant for fertility, safe childbirth, and marital harmony. The parade looks obscene—until you notice toddlers on parents’ shoulders waving carrot-shaped balloons. Food stalls hawk candy members for ¥300 and cucumber equivalents for ¥200. Every yen of profit funds HIV/AIDS research. The scene is joyful, crowded, and shockingly family-friendly.

Tip: Arrive by 10am to secure a position along the parade route. This is one of the most internationally photographed events in Japan—expect a large and enthusiastic crowd of visitors from around the world alongside local devotees.

🎊Golden Week

2026-04-29 - 2026-05-05 Nationwide
Book Ahead holiday

Japan’s longest holiday jam-packs four national days—Showa Day, Constitution Memorial Day, Greenery Day, and Children's Day—into one riotous week. Everyone travels. Shinkansen seats vanish weeks early, big sights hit bursting point, and coastal resorts clog. Carp streamers (koinobori) snap in every breeze for Children's Day; the mood turns magical—if you booked first.

Tip: Book all japan transportation and accommodation at least two months ahead. Counter-intuitively, major cities like Kyoto are quieter during Golden Week as residents escape to the countryside—urban sightseeing can be surprisingly manageable.

May

🎉Sanja Matsuri

Dates vary yearly Senso-ji Temple and Asakusa District, Tokyo
Free festival

1.8 million people. That is how many cram into Asakusa for Tokyo’s loudest party, the three-day riot that hits the third weekend of May around Senso-ji Temple. One hundred neighborhood mikoshi—portable shrines—lurch through the streets on the shoulders of chanting, sake-fueled teams in traditional festival wear. The final Sunday brings the main event: three massive shrine mikoshi parade in a grand procession. Total chaos. Worth it.

Tip: Friday evening is the sweet spot—opening ceremonies draw fewer feet than weekend days, and Nakamise shopping arcade keeps its food stalls glowing and festival pulse alive well past dark.

June

🎉Yosakoi Soran Festival

Dates vary yearly Multiple venues across Central Sapporo, Hokkaido
Free festival

Two million people. That's who shows up for Sapporo's answer to summer festivals in early June. Over 30,000 dancers—dressed to blind you—hit the streets with choreography that fuses traditional Yosakoi movement with Hokkaido folk songs. Athletic. Colorful. Infectiously joyful. Roughly 200 teams from across Japan compete across multiple outdoor stages for five straight days. The energy is ridiculous. The costumes are louder than the music. And yes—this is one of the best things to do in Japan in early summer.

Tip: Evening finals on the main Odori Park stage—that's the moment. Standing spots vanish fast. Arrive two hours early, minimum. Sapporo accommodation in early June? Still cheap. Nothing like Snow Festival prices.

July

🙏Gion Matsuri

2026-07-01 - 2026-07-31 Central Kyoto, Shijo-Karasuma area
Free Book Ahead religious

Kyoto's premier festival runs the entire month of July, culminating in two grand yamaboko junko float processions on July 17 and 24. Elaborately decorated floats—some dating to the sixteenth century—are hauled through Kyoto's streets by teams of hundreds. The preceding yoiyama evenings (July 14-16 and 21-23) transform central Kyoto into a pedestrian festival with lantern-lit streets, yukata-clad locals, and open machiya townhouse exhibitions. An unmissable entry in any Japan travel guide.

Tip: Kyoto lodging for mid-July? Book four months early—rates triple when the parade rolls through. The yoiyama nights feel emptier, and frankly more electric, than the main event. Duck into the alleys branching off Shijo; you'll find quiet stalls and breathing room.

🎵Fuji Rock Festival

Dates vary yearly Naeba Ski Resort, Yuzawa, Niigata Prefecture
Book Ahead music

120,000+ people spend the last weekend of July wedged into the Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Prefecture, for Asia's premier outdoor music festival. Since 1997 Radiohead, Kendrick Lamar, and hundreds of Japanese and international acts have played its alpine stages. The mountain setting—rain-slicked, fog-draped, always dramatic—is half the show. Camping is not optional; it is Fuji Rock's beating heart.

Tip: Three-day camping tickets vanish in hours—buy the second they drop each spring. Pack real waterproof gear no matter what the forecast says; mountain japan weather turns on a dime. The free shuttle buses from Echigo-Yuzawa Station run tight and on time.

August

🎉Aomori Nebuta Matsuri

2026-08-02 - 2026-08-07 Central Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture
Free Book Ahead festival

Three million visitors can't be wrong. Aomori's most celebrated festival unleashes enormous illuminated paper lantern floats—nebuta—hand-painted warriors, demons, and deities backlit from within. They thunder through city streets to taiko drumming that rattles your ribs. Thousands of haneto dancers leap alongside, straw-hat costumes jangling with bells. Total chaos. On the final night, crews load the floats onto boats and parade them across Aomori Bay beneath a firework-lit finale that turns the water into liquid light. Impressive doesn't cover it.

Tip: Rent a costume for ¥3,000 and you're in—no dance skills, no problem. The haneto parade will take you anyway. For the final night, buy grandstand seats. Fireworks crackle above the bay while floats glide past. Worth every yen.

🎉Awa Odori

2026-08-12 - 2026-08-15 Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku
Book Ahead festival

Tokushima City on Shikoku Island erupts for four nights. Japan's largest dance festival owns the Obon period. Thousands of performers—straw hats, yukata, perfect timing—move in choreographed groups (ren) along fixed routes. Their chant cuts through the heat: 'Erai yatcha!' The festival's motto? 'Fools who dance and fools who watch are the same—so why not dance?' Spectators don't hesitate. They jump in. The energy spreads like fire. The scale dwarfs everything else. This is the most joyful thing you can do in Japan.

Tip: Pay the ¥2,000 for an enclosed seat—street chaos isn't worth the crush. Can't reach Tokushima in August? The Awa Odori Kaikan still stages daily shows.

🙏Obon – Festival of Souls

2026-08-13 - 2026-08-16 Nationwide; Daimonji Gozan Okuribi, Kyoto for main event
Free religious

Three days in mid-August, the dead come back. Japan's Buddhist festival of the dead honors ancestral spirits believed to return to the living world for three days in mid-August. Families clean graves, light paper lanterns (toro nagashi) on rivers and seas to guide spirits home, and perform bon odori circle dances at neighborhood festivals. Rural villages hold the most atmospheric observances. The Daimonji bonfires lit on five Kyoto mountains on August 16 send spirits on their way in spectacular fashion.

Tip: Score a front-row seat to Kyoto’s Daimonji inferno—five mountain bonfires ignited at 8pm sharp. From a northern Kyoto rooftop bar or any elevated park, you’ll watch each fire burn 30 minutes flat. Pick a perch with clear sightlines to several faces; the view is everything.

September

🎉Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri

Dates vary yearly Kishiwada City, Osaka Prefecture
Free festival

Four-tonne oak floats hurtle through Osaka Prefecture's streets each September. Teams of hundreds drag the danjiri at a sprint, dancers clinging to the roof as four tonnes of timber whip round hair-pin corners. The ritual has pulsed since 1703; it is Japan's most visceral autumn blast. Held on the third weekend, the first cool air sharpens the chase.

Tip: Get there early. The 'yarimawashi' corner turn is the whole show—floats whip around a tight bend at speed, wood groaning, wheels skimming inches from the curb. Plant yourself at the bend before 7 a.m.; by 9 a.m. you'll be three bodies deep. Morning sessions on both Saturday and Sunday give you the only unobstructed sightlines before the crush arrives.

🎭Tokyo Game Show

Dates vary yearly Makuhari Messe Convention Center, Chiba City
Book Ahead cultural

250,000+ gamers flood Makuhari Messe in late September—four days of pure digital overload. Two business days first, then the public gets their turn. Every major Japanese studio shows up. International giants too. New titles drop. Hardware debuts. Playable demos everywhere. The cosplay scene? Extraordinary chaos. Thousands of fans in costumes that take months to build. Elaborate doesn't cover it. For travelers building a Japan itinerary around technology culture and things you can only do in Japan—this isn't optional. It is essential.

Tip: Tickets vanish in minutes—set an alarm for the instant two-month-out release. Four-hour lines form for the star demos; hit the gates at 9 a.m., knock off your must-plays first, then circle back for the shorter, overlooked queues after lunch.

October

🎭Jidai Matsuri – Festival of the Ages

2026-10-22 Kyoto Imperial Palace to Heian Jingu Shrine, Kyoto
Free cultural

2,000 marchers. Two kilometers of silk and steel. Kyoto's historical pageant doesn't just reenact history—it drags the past right down the street. Each costume is exact, copied from scrolls and museum pieces. Heian court ladies glide past in twelve-layer robes. Meiji-era soldiers march in crisp uniforms. Every era of Kyoto's 1,200-year reign as Japan's capital appears in order, from the founding to the final days. The procession stretches two kilometers and takes over two hours to pass. You'll see it all—archers, nobles, merchants, monks. The crowd leans forward, necks craning, cameras forgotten. Established in 1895 to commemorate Kyoto's founding, it is one of Japan's three great festivals alongside Gion Matsuri and Aoi Matsuri.

Tip: Grandstand seats along the route cost money—book through Kyoto City Tourism Association and you'll sit comfortably for the entire procession. Free sidewalk spots? Gone 90 minutes before the 12pm start. Arrive by 10:30am if you want a decent standing position.

🎉Takayama Autumn Festival

2026-10-09 - 2026-10-10 Takayama Old Town (Sanmachi Suji), Gifu Prefecture
Free Book Ahead festival

October in Takayama: the Hida Mountains ignite with color while eleven UNESCO-listed yatai—lacquered, metal-studded floats carrying karakuri mechanical puppets—roll through the old town. This is autumn's answer to the famous spring festival. After dark, each float carries 100 glowing paper lanterns; the night procession (yomatsuri) delivers one of Japan's most impressive visual moments.

Tip: Takayama ryokan for October festival dates book out eight to twelve months ahead—lock in early or lose out. The town is beautiful year-round. Visit the week before the festival instead: quieter streets, brilliant koyo foliage, rooms still open.

🍽️Tokyo Ramen Show

Dates vary yearly Komazawa Olympic Park, Setagaya, Tokyo
food

Japan’s premier ramen festival crams the country’s top chefs into Komazawa Olympic Park for ten days between late October and early November. The lineup flips each week—two sessions, roughly 20 stalls, all slinging limited-edition regional bowls. If you’re serious about Japan food culture, don’t skip it: one ticket lets you taste Sapporo miso, Hakata tonkotsu, and even Yamagata cold ramen without leaving Tokyo. Total privilege.

Tip: Buy your bowl first—about ¥1,000—then line up; no stall sells on the spot. Show at 11am sharp or you'll wait an hour. The second session, last five days, usually lands the most praised regional shops.

November

🙏Shichi-Go-San – 7-5-3 Festival

2026-11-15 Meiji Shrine, Tokyo; Sumiyoshi Taisha, Osaka; shrines nationwide
Free religious

Shrines across Japan explode with silk and giggles every November. Shichi-Go-San, a Shinto rite for kids aged three, five, and seven, packs October and November with parents in formal dress and children in even fancier ones. Elaborate traditional kimono swish, cameras click, and a priest chants for healthy growth. The official date is November 15, but most families pick any weekend they can get a slot. After the prayer, each child grabs a decorated bag of chitose-ame thousand-year candy—one of the country’s most charming cultural sights.

Tip: The second weekend of November is the peak period with the most children in kimono. Weekday mornings at major shrines give you space—and shots—without the elbowing near the main worship hall.

🎭Koyo – Autumn Foliage Season

Dates vary yearly Tofuku-ji Temple, Kyoto; Nikko, Tochigi; Rikugi-en Garden, Tokyo
cultural

Japan's autumn leaf-viewing season rivals cherry blossoms in passion and spectacle. The color front moves south from Hokkaido in October through Kyoto and Tokyo in mid-to-late November. Temple gardens—Tofuku-ji and Eikan-do in Kyoto, Rikugi-en in Tokyo—are dramatic. Illuminated evening events (momiji-kari) extend viewing into the night. Japan weather in November is crisp and clear, making this arguably the best time to visit Japan for photography enthusiasts.

Tip: Tofuku-ji's famous maple garden charges ¥500—yet lines at peak foliage still stretch 60-90 minutes. Check live koyo forecasts, then shift your Japan itinerary to wherever color is firing the day you land.

December

🎭Winter Illuminations Season

2026-12-01 - 2027-01-03 Nabana no Sato, Mie; Omotesando, Tokyo; Arashiyama, Kyoto
cultural

Seven million LEDs turn Nabana no Sato in Mie Prefecture into Japan's most elaborate illumination—one bulb for every resident of Kyoto. From late November through early January the country trades autumn maples for winter light displays of extraordinary scale and artistry. Tokyo's Omotesando keyaki trees shimmer with golden light; Kyoto's Arashiyama Hanatoro throws soft beams across bamboo groves and temples. Add the Christmas markets in Yokohama and Tokyo's Roppongi, and December delivers some of the most magical things to do in Japan in winter.

Tip: ¥2,300 gets you into Nabana no Sato—easy bus ride from Nagoya—and throws in ¥1,000 worth of food vouchers. Skip the gate line: buy online. Weeknights aren't just quieter; they're a different planet from the weekend crush.

🛒Comiket – Winter Comic Market

Dates vary yearly Tokyo Big Sight, Odaiba, Tokyo
market

35,000+ artist circles. Half a million attendees. The world's largest self-published comics and doujinshi market runs three days in late December at Tokyo Big Sight in Odaiba. You'll browse original artwork, manga, cosplay materials, and fan fiction. The cosplay concentration outside the venue is extraordinary—total chaos, but worth it. An essential stop on any Japan travel guide covering contemporary pop culture and things you can only do in Japan.

Tip: ¥1,000 at the door—cash only. Line up by 10am sharp. The best limited pieces? Gone in minutes. Most stalls are one-person shows; they don't take cards.

Tips for Attending Events

1

Book 3-6 months ahead for cherry blossom season (late March–April), Golden Week (late April–May), and big festivals like Gion Matsuri (July) and Sapporo Snow Festival (February)—hotels near the action sell out fast and prices double or triple.

2

Japan's trains don't run late—ever. Grab an IC card (Suica or ICOCA) at the airport, shove ¥3,000–5,000 on it, and you'll glide through the barriers while the ticket line snakes twenty deep at every festival station.

3

Summer festivals (July–August) hit 35°C and sticky-thick humidity—pack light linen and a ¥500 pocket fan. Autumn and winter events demand layers; you'll peel them off by noon, then pile them back after dark. Mid-June to mid-July is tsuyu: sudden cloudbursts, soaked socks. One compact umbrella saves the day.

4

Cash still rules at temple markets, shrine stalls, and every matsuri worth attending. Hit the 7-Eleven ATM first—Japan Post works too—then pocket enough yen. Smaller-city festivals can leave you dry; out there, machines disappear.

5

Yukata—those cotton summer kimono—aren’t costumes. Slip one on for a matsuri and you’ll fit right in. Most summer festivals rent them for ¥3,000 right outside the gate. At Shinto shrines the rules flip: cover shoulders, cover knees. You’ll rarely see a bare arm inside the torii.

6

For events requiring advance tickets—Fuji Rock, Awa Odori grandstands, Tokyo Game Show—purchase through official Japanese platforms (Ticket Pia, Lawson Tickets) well ahead of your trip. Many of Japan's most beloved events sell out domestically before international visitors are aware tickets are available.

Event Categories

🎉
festival

Japan's annual calendar beats through its festivals—multi-day explosions of parades, music, food, and community ritual that turn cities into living celebrations.

🎭
cultural

Leaf-viewing traditions anchor Japanese identity—spring's pink cherry blizzards, autumn's red maple waves. Historical pageants march through Kyoto streets unchanged since 794. Pop-culture spectacles explode in Shibuya: cosplay parades, anime pilgrimages, midnight ramen queues. Seasonal arts events shift with precision: summer bon-odori circles, winter snow festivals, spring's pink cherry blizzards. These rhythms repeat, generation after generation, defining what it means to be Japanese.

sports

Sumo grand tournaments—six each year—pack Ryōgoku Kokugikan with 11,000 roaring fans. International marathons shut down Tokyo's streets at 9 a.m. sharp; runners pass the Imperial Palace while half the city cheers. These events aren't just spectacles. They're Japan's sporting soul on full display, raw and unfiltered.

🎊
holiday

Japan's rhythms flip on public holidays—schools slam shut, families pile onto bullet trains, and domestic travel spikes to levels that break booking sites.

🛒
market

Specialty markets—raw, buzzing, alive—pull artists, collectors, and die-hard fans into one loud room. They haggle, swap, and toast the obsessions that won't let them sleep.

🙏
religious

Bean-throwing at February setsubun, incense at August O-bon—Shinto and Buddhist rites aren't pageantry. They're Tuesday.

🎵
music

Japan's live music scene is excellent—outdoor concerts and touring festivals cover rock, jazz, electronic, even traditional styles.

🍽️
food

Regional Japan food festivals don’t mess around—ramen throw-downs, sake smack-downs, block after block of street-food smoke and sizzle.

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